Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Cape Town : Tab :: San Francisco : 1989


I’ve been trying to put my finger on the main distinction between San Francisco/US and Cape Town. I think it has finally been realized through Tab. Remember Tab? The caffeine-free diet beverage of the 80s? I don’t know that I had ever actually consumed it, that is, until cultural pressures forced it upon me yesterday (cultural pressures=my personal curiosity, alone, at a grocery store). I bought the 6.5 Rand can and prepared myself to understand Cape Townians. First off, I should mention that canned items in South Africa (as well as parts of Europe) weigh more than cans in America. Emily found out that this boils down to recycling difficulties. In America our cans are made of aluminum (that’s al-loo-min-nium here, ahem), whereas here they are made of combination of steel, tin and aluminum. This gives me, the American, great satisfaction because it deceives me into believing that there is more beverage remaining than there is in reality. You know how I feel about quantity over quality….but then, Wham! the Tab has been completely consumed when I think I still have ¾ of a can remaining. 

The good stuff:)

I digress, my point: Tab, to my knowledge, has not been sighted in SF (with the exception of the new-age pink energy version) since the late 80s and early 90s, whereas here it is all the rage. I see people young and old consuming Tab. I folded to social pressures and found it to be alarmingly not bad. My favorite is the warning on the side of all fake sugar beverages here warning that diet drinks, alone, will not lead to a healthy lifestyle, you must also exercise and eat.
Regardless, lots of things in CT seem to be vintage or 80s-esq. Many of them are wise and significantly more sustainable than American disposable ways (real crockery at restaurants, the ability to turn on and off outlets, parking attendants, petrol attendants) but many just seem old-fashioned. Much of this is due to apartheid and the late bloom of democracy (maybe), but seemingly simple things here are out-dated. Internet is not very accessible. Michael and Emily have purchased Cell-C sticks, which are 3G internet sticks that you plug into USB to access the web. This means, that the system gets crowded during peak usage times. It also makes uploading photos an arduous process. Additionally, houses all have electric gates, electrified fences, high fences, dense hedges…it makes for an isolated and sterile feel when walking through the suburbs. People are warm and friendly, so the contrast is harsh.
On the public health side, this late 80s throw back means that seat belts seem to be non-existent or completely optional. Emily and I crowded into a minibus taxi the other day with 16 people in it, on the wall of the taxi is said “maximum of 6 passenger permitted.” I love things like that. Also, smog, pollution and leaded gasoline. I can’t remember leaded gasoline in the US, but here it is an option. Walking down the street often feels like inhaling pack after pack of burning garbage, burning rubber, cigarettes, ash and some newly laid tar. Additionally, people are indeed smoking cigarettes everywhere, including restaurant patios:/
Complaints aside, I really like Cape Town. It’s a blend of people and languages. I can see why Mike and Em want to live here. It’s up and coming and with it, trends that are dated to me, are alive (maybe even thriving) here. I intend to consume another Tab, perhaps while writing another, substantive blog about this week’s happenings soon! In short, we went on a big hike with the BEEP township kids from Silvermine to Hout Bay, we visited the CT aquarium, I visited the District Six Museum, the Slave Lodge, the SA National Gallery, had ladies night, met with the women of Bo-Kaap, had all you can eat sushi (whoa), indulged in my ridiculously swanky ladies-only gym, baked banana chocolate chip bars and bread to help Michael and Emily cope with SA cuisine...I’m not hurting for fun, food and drink!
As always, comment, write and email early and often!

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Funemployment in Cape Town!

I’ve had a very fun and busy week in Cape Town. In no particular order, here are the highlights:)
1.   We went to the Banff Film Festival and saw some great nature films. I’ve never been to it before, but Emily used to help put on at Whitman. They were all pretty inspirational and/or crazy. My favorite was called “Eastern Rises”…about Americans fly-fishing in Russia. Go check it out.
2.   People here say “pleasure” in response to “thank you.” I like it much better than “you’re welcome.” Add a South African accent and viola!  They also describe things as “nice” or “beautiful” instead of “good.” In all of my traveling wisdom, I really like trying new foods, all foods--including the local cheap junk food. We found something that looks like Pirate’s Booty called Bubbles. When we checked out the cashier laughed and told us while the flavor we got was ok, the chedder flavor is nice.
3.   They only permit full service gas here a la Oregon. I don’t understand why we don’t do it in California. It creates jobs and encourages laziness.
4.   Traffic lights are called Robots. Seriously. I’m glad this was explained to me prior to receiving directions from a South African. Would have really changed my ability to get lost…
5.   We went on a SAFARI last weekend!!! It was pretty amazing to see such large animals dwarfed by the gorgeous scenery. Zebras blend much better than I’d have ever imagined and they stand in packs so you can’t really figure out how many are there. I LOVE giraffes, which I’ve always known, but this was proven over and over on our safari. Hippos, refused to leave the water, so we only saw noses and eyes.  WhatEVER hippos. I want to love you, but sometimes you make it soooo difficult. We also saw eland, oryx, springbok, rhinos, Cape buffalo (so ugly, they’re cute), kudu, impala, birds galore, lions, wildebeest (ugliest). I was on the lookout for honey badgers, aardvarks and meer cats, to no avail. Oh well, hopefully this won’t be my last safari! Due to my inability to upload photos, feel free to check out my brother’s safari photos on flickr.
6.   I pet a cheetah, which I know is not actually a good thing. But they have a cheetah conservancy, so we got to pet one! They are gorgeous and purr very loud and run EXTREMELY fast!
7.   Emily and I went up Table Mountain yesterday! At long last, we had nice weather (did I mention the safari was FREEZING) and ventured our way up to the cable car house. The cable car is an engineering feat. There are two gondola-like cars that take 4 minutes to summit 3000 feet. They hold 65 people each and we stood on a rotating platform so you get 360 views during the journey. At the top the views were incredible!
8.   On our drive back from the safari we tried to stop at a few wineries. They were all closed. At one particular family winery in Paarl, we happened upon the family enjoying their Sunday braii in their large garden (the signs were in Afrikans so we didn’t understand that this was their private residence..oops). We apologized profusely and tried to hustle out, but the owner chatted with us and gave us a bottle of wine and his card so we can come back. Such hospitality! We did ultimately find an open winery. Delicious! I’m still struck by how different the wines are here and how cheap the bottles are at the actual winery. Less than $4 and delicious!
9.   Last week I visited the Holocaust museum and SA Jewish museum. They were both very well done. I would suggest doing it in that order if you visit because the Jewish museum is much more uplifting. Right now they’re featuring a political cartoonist known as Zapiro. They had a video were you could draw the cartoon version of Mandiba (the affectionate name for Mandela). Mine is a work of art! The cafĂ© at the museums is excellent. I recommend the visit and the food!
10. I know I’m forgetting stuff; it’s just been busy with fun! What else? We watched the sunset from Signal Hill, went to the Rhodes Memorial for good views, I got to visit LEAP (Michael’s school) during their heritage electives. It was BEAUTIFUL. I listened to a chorus, watched traditional Xhosa dance with African drums, popped in on the “boring” floor as my guide said: debate, chess and something else…I can’t remember. The singing was my favorite. Professionals in the specific field who also grew up in the townships lead these electives. It’s a neat program. Very neat school. Go Michael!
That’s all for now. As always, I miss you all and hope you email early and often:)