Cape Town : Tab :: San Francisco : 1989

I’ve been trying to put my finger on the main distinction between San Francisco/US and Cape Town. I think it has finally been realized through Tab. Remember Tab? The caffeine-free diet beverage of the 80s? I don’t know that I had ever actually consumed it, that is, until cultural pressures forced it upon me yesterday (cultural pressures=my personal curiosity, alone, at a grocery store). I bought the 6.5 Rand can and prepared myself to understand Cape Townians. First off, I should mention that canned items in South Africa (as well as parts of Europe) weigh more than cans in America. Emily found out that this boils down to recycling difficulties. In America our cans are made of aluminum (that’s al-loo-min-nium here, ahem), whereas here they are made of combination of steel, tin and aluminum. This gives me, the American, great satisfaction because it deceives me into believing that there is more beverage remaining than there is in reality. You know how I feel about quantity over quality….but then, Wham! the Tab has been completely consumed when I think I still have ¾ of a can remaining. 

The good stuff:)

I digress, my point: Tab, to my knowledge, has not been sighted in SF (with the exception of the new-age pink energy version) since the late 80s and early 90s, whereas here it is all the rage. I see people young and old consuming Tab. I folded to social pressures and found it to be alarmingly not bad. My favorite is the warning on the side of all fake sugar beverages here warning that diet drinks, alone, will not lead to a healthy lifestyle, you must also exercise and eat.

Regardless, lots of things in CT seem to be vintage or 80s-esq. Many of them are wise and significantly more sustainable than American disposable ways (real crockery at restaurants, the ability to turn on and off outlets, parking attendants, petrol attendants) but many just seem old-fashioned. Much of this is due to apartheid and the late bloom of democracy (maybe), but seemingly simple things here are out-dated. Internet is not very accessible. Michael and Emily have purchased Cell-C sticks, which are 3G internet sticks that you plug into USB to access the web. This means, that the system gets crowded during peak usage times. It also makes uploading photos an arduous process. Additionally, houses all have electric gates, electrified fences, high fences, dense hedges…it makes for an isolated and sterile feel when walking through the suburbs. People are warm and friendly, so the contrast is harsh.

On the public health side, this late 80s throw back means that seat belts seem to be non-existent or completely optional. Emily and I crowded into a minibus taxi the other day with 16 people in it, on the wall of the taxi is said “maximum of 6 passenger permitted.” I love things like that. Also, smog, pollution and leaded gasoline. I can’t remember leaded gasoline in the US, but here it is an option. Walking down the street often feels like inhaling pack after pack of burning garbage, burning rubber, cigarettes, ash and some newly laid tar. Additionally, people are indeed smoking cigarettes everywhere, including restaurant patios:/

Complaints aside, I really like Cape Town. It’s a blend of people and languages. I can see why Mike and Em want to live here. It’s up and coming and with it, trends that are dated to me, are alive (maybe even thriving) here. I intend to consume another Tab, perhaps while writing another, substantive blog about this week’s happenings soon! In short, we went on a big hike with the BEEP township kids from Silvermine to Hout Bay, we visited the CT aquarium, I visited the District Six Museum, the Slave Lodge, the SA National Gallery, had ladies night, met with the women of Bo-Kaap, had all you can eat sushi (whoa), indulged in my ridiculously swanky ladies-only gym, baked banana chocolate chip bars and bread to help Michael and Emily cope with SA cuisine...I’m not hurting for fun, food and drink!

As always, comment, write and email early and often!

Funemployment in Cape Town!

I’ve had a very fun and busy week in Cape Town. In no particular order, here are the highlights:)

1.   We went to the Banff Film Festival and saw some great nature films. I’ve never been to it before, but Emily used to help put on at Whitman. They were all pretty inspirational and/or crazy. My favorite was called “Eastern Rises”…about Americans fly-fishing in Russia. Go check it out.

2.   People here say “pleasure” in response to “thank you.” I like it much better than “you’re welcome.” Add a South African accent and viola!  They also describe things as “nice” or “beautiful” instead of “good.” In all of my traveling wisdom, I really like trying new foods, all foods--including the local cheap junk food. We found something that looks like Pirate’s Booty called Bubbles. When we checked out the cashier laughed and told us while the flavor we got was ok, the chedder flavor is nice.

3.   They only permit full service gas here a la Oregon. I don’t understand why we don’t do it in California. It creates jobs and encourages laziness.

4.   Traffic lights are called Robots. Seriously. I’m glad this was explained to me prior to receiving directions from a South African. Would have really changed my ability to get lost…

5.   We went on a SAFARI last weekend!!! It was pretty amazing to see such large animals dwarfed by the gorgeous scenery. Zebras blend much better than I’d have ever imagined and they stand in packs so you can’t really figure out how many are there. I LOVE giraffes, which I’ve always known, but this was proven over and over on our safari. Hippos, refused to leave the water, so we only saw noses and eyes.  WhatEVER hippos. I want to love you, but sometimes you make it soooo difficult. We also saw eland, oryx, springbok, rhinos, Cape buffalo (so ugly, they’re cute), kudu, impala, birds galore, lions, wildebeest (ugliest). I was on the lookout for honey badgers, aardvarks and meer cats, to no avail. Oh well, hopefully this won’t be my last safari! Due to my inability to upload photos, feel free to check out my brother’s safari photos on flickr.

6.   I pet a cheetah, which I know is not actually a good thing. But they have a cheetah conservancy, so we got to pet one! They are gorgeous and purr very loud and run EXTREMELY fast!

7.   Emily and I went up Table Mountain yesterday! At long last, we had nice weather (did I mention the safari was FREEZING) and ventured our way up to the cable car house. The cable car is an engineering feat. There are two gondola-like cars that take 4 minutes to summit 3000 feet. They hold 65 people each and we stood on a rotating platform so you get 360 views during the journey. At the top the views were incredible!

8.   On our drive back from the safari we tried to stop at a few wineries. They were all closed. At one particular family winery in Paarl, we happened upon the family enjoying their Sunday braii in their large garden (the signs were in Afrikans so we didn’t understand that this was their private residence..oops). We apologized profusely and tried to hustle out, but the owner chatted with us and gave us a bottle of wine and his card so we can come back. Such hospitality! We did ultimately find an open winery. Delicious! I’m still struck by how different the wines are here and how cheap the bottles are at the actual winery. Less than $4 and delicious!

9.   Last week I visited the Holocaust museum and SA Jewish museum. They were both very well done. I would suggest doing it in that order if you visit because the Jewish museum is much more uplifting. Right now they’re featuring a political cartoonist known as Zapiro. They had a video were you could draw the cartoon version of Mandiba (the affectionate name for Mandela). Mine is a work of art! The café at the museums is excellent. I recommend the visit and the food!

10. I know I’m forgetting stuff; it’s just been busy with fun! What else? We watched the sunset from Signal Hill, went to the Rhodes Memorial for good views, I got to visit LEAP (Michael’s school) during their heritage electives. It was BEAUTIFUL. I listened to a chorus, watched traditional Xhosa dance with African drums, popped in on the “boring” floor as my guide said: debate, chess and something else…I can’t remember. The singing was my favorite. Professionals in the specific field who also grew up in the townships lead these electives. It’s a neat program. Very neat school. Go Michael!

That’s all for now. As always, I miss you all and hope you email early and often:)

Only in Cape Town

1.    When passing on the highway in a car (I only state this because there are more human Frogger contestants on the FREEWAY than any other place I’ve ever visited), you flash your hazards as a sign of “thank you” and/or “you’re welcome”

2.    You can order a “Game of the Day Skewer,” and no, this is not a fun activity, it is multiple animals dead and cooked on one skewer. My brother got one while out to dinner last week (thank goodness I was not there) the waiter told him it was W.I.S.K.  Wildebeest, Impala, Springbok, Kudu. No words.

3.    Everything has thorns in Africa. We spent the weekend in Bontebak National Park where the acacia was full of EVIL thorns, the grass had crazy thistles, the aloe had huge spikes…I’d say this flora does not work together, it’s every plant for itself.

4.    It is spring right now!!! (I guess this goes against my title, please substitute “southern hemisphere” for “Cape Town”) There were baby everything we saw: Bontebak (a beautiful white-faced antelope), Cape zebras (!!!), baboons (!!!) ok those are the only babies I saw, but we saw more stuff, tortoise, beetles, Blue cranes, tons of other birds, ostrich, cows and sheep.

5.    I am a specie-ist! Our South African friend, Sam, accused me of being specieist after I objected to the fact that people eat elephants. I mean, elephants are possibly the THE CUTEST ANIMAL in the kingdom. Should we be eating animals? Probably not. But if we are already eating them, shouldn’t we avoid the cute ones like elephants? OF COURSE:)

6.    Baboons are not as cute as I previously believed. I am good at judging and maybe I just prefer a baboon with a protective barrier between it and me. But we encountered about 30 baboons in the middle of the freeway and almost hit a baby:( Kind of like deer in America. Only like cute monkeys with GIANT teeth, little to no fear of cars/people, and red behinds.

7.    No alcohol on Sundays. We tried to wine taste on our way home. Winery closed. Also, liquor cannot be sold at grocery stores or liquor stores on Sundays. Ironically, the one near Mike and Em with a license to sell on Sundays is in the Muslim district.

8.    No Daylight Savings Time. Currently we are 9 hours ahead of California. As of November 6, we will be 10.

9.    Blankets are provided at outdoor venues. Have no fear. I had dinner on the Waterfront on Wednesday night and while there are heat lamps, a fleece blanket is also on the back of each chair for warmth during dining. Necessary? No. Awesome? Yes.

10. There are a zillion languages. It’s remarkable. Literally, that’s why I’m remarking here now. Signs are in a four languages and I’d venture to guess that almost 100% of the native South Africans speak 2+ languages. Good thing Spanish is useful here…(that’s sarcasm, I know it’s hard to gauge electronically).

Luxury to Poverty.

On Monday, Emily and I headed to a meeting with some local women to discuss entrepreneurship in their community of Bo-Kaap. The women were very warm, inviting and inspirational. Their call to action came a few years ago when male unemployment in their community due to the recession trickled to women helping one another put food on the table. These are women that have cooking, sewing and other skills that are marketable. The two women that we met with took it upon themselves to facilitate a monthly cultural fair where the women can sell their goods and simply be around one another for support. Emily and I will go to the market Saturday and hopefully enjoy a feast of delicious local foods and crafts. Pictures to follow:)

Tuesday we went into the townships (even went into a cresh daycare) then to Stellenbosch, the Western Cape’s wine country. We drove into town and had a delicious lunch, complete with an American waitress! She recommended the “golden circle” of wineries. So we took her advice and visited three wineries. I hate to sell-out my home, but this is a whole different level of beauty compared to Napa. There are HUGE mountains, an endless sky (the Montana sky of S. Africa), significantly cheaper everything…a tasting was less than $3 and then if you bought a bottle, the tasting fee was waived…so for $5, you got lovely ambiance, tasting and delicious BOTTLE of wine to take home. Mmm!

Yesterday we headed to Gugulethu, a township east of the city. We helped a community farm with weeding in the hot African sun. It has been there for about 20 years as part of this project: http://harvestofhope.co.za/ We weeded a bed of “spinach” which is what they call chard here. I enjoyed the first hour or so of stoop labor—found it meditative and glorious, however, the nettle got to me and I was ready to be done after the second hour;)

Emily has also connected with an after school program called Beyond Experience Environmental Program (BEEP), so after farming, we met up with the two staff, Lindela and Khanyiswa, that are from the township and have been leading the program for a few years. They work in four primary schools with grade 5-6 students, providing workshops to teach children about the environment and then they go on overnight camping trips throughout Cape Town. This was my first real township experience and Emily and I were separated at different schools. Lindela thought that it’d be a good ice-breaker to allow the students to ask me (aka LaurRRRRRen) whatever they wanted (without telling me this). I learned that I look 21-22 yrs old to Lolonga, an 11 year old studentJ (Clearly I had to reciprocate the question) We did some extreme nominating and cutthroat voting to see which students were going to get to go camping on the next trip. The students all speak Xhosa, the language that involves lots of clicks, and English. The students had to write an exam for the voluntary afterschool program (I was highly impressed with their behavior and respect). Lindela and I made sandwiches for the students: bologna + ketchup + white bread and hot dog + mayo + brown bread and as they completed their exams we distributed sandwiches. The children were VERY polite, patient and waited until food arrived. No one complained and everyone was appreciative. It was clear these students were hungry and it was difficult for me to see. I am so grateful to be here healthy and happy, being granted the opportunity to meet beautiful people and re-evaluate my worldview.

Ostriches and penguins! Oh my!

We took a scenic drive to Cape Point, the southern most tip of Africa* and protected habitat, on Saturday. Emily met a wonderful German girl, Dorothy, who is here doing an internship for a climate change NGO, that joined us. We headed south along the coast, stopping at an ostrich farm along the way. They were very cute and we learned way more than I ever knew about them.

Ostriches…

a) have leather

b) have the second strongest leather (to kangaroos) with 14 layers of skin

c) ingest sandstone to help them digest food

d) can run 70km per hr for 30 minutes

We continued south and the weather could not seem to decide what it wanted to be and resulted in crazy wind and occasional drizzle, followed by clouds, sunshine, rinse, repeat. The views were awesome and all I could really think about was where we were on the map. So far south! Have I mentioned how wonderful it is to return to spring and the southern hemisphere? The days are getting longer again. My body is very confused as to why I’m eating strawberries and corn again…

We returned home on a different path, stopping at Boulder Beach for penguins!!! They were molting and actually much more ugly than their zoo cronies (but I presume much happier…except for the predators maybe). We saw African Penguins, formally known as Jacka** Penguins !!! They were very cute and smelled bad. We had a Tibetan meal for lunch in Simon’s Town.

Sunday we got up early, as we’d made a “booking” at 9:30 AM to watch the Rugby World Cup Final-France v. New Zealand. Our bar was for NZ all the way and after a great match the All Blacks won!! Rugby might genuinely be the most savage professional sport; no timeouts, no padding, no helmet…though these things also make me question anyone who would play a full contact sport without pads..?

We had a great walk along the beach of Seapoint and rounded the day out with delicious white wine in Camps Bay. It was a lovely weekend:)

*not actually the southern most point, but close and where the Indian and Atlantic Ocean are meet.

We ♥ Real Beer = Lies!!!

Greetings from Cape Town! I have started my adventure after a rather stressful transitional life of working for 6.5 weeks after being laid off. It is such a relief to be done and SO exciting to be traveling (aka in my happy place)!!!

My 33.25 hour journey from SF-->CPT took me through Amsterdam and Johannesburg on KLM. I will say, KLM is an airline I recommend flying. While the food was not the best, they made up for this with multiple feedings per flight. COPIOUS food. You will never go hungry on KLM. Both long flights offered snack areas in the back with crackers, cookies, mini Mentos and tea/water and they each had ice cream distributed between the 3 main meals. THREE!

I had a 9 hour layover in Jburg and stayed at a hotel for a quick shower and cat nap. I left a sunny Jburg spring morning to fly to a "wintery" (per our pilot) Cape Town, complete with light rain. Michael and Emily greeted me at the airport (weeeeee!) and immediately interrogated me about homemade brownies from my mom. We hopped in their new-to-them 1993 BMW, which seriously is a HUGE leap nicer than our shared black Altima at home...not complaining, I'm just saying...took Michael to school and then Emily and I came to their beautiful home. We have a view of Table Mountain, that is incredible! My guest room has a view of the police horse grazing land, I find this funny.

Apologies for boring you with details. The title of this post has to do with the fact that so far the wine has been AMAZING, but the beer is awful. If you know me, you recognize my love of that golden, hoppy, refreshingly magical beverage known as beer...here, the "beer" fails. Emily and I were at a wine shop and saw this sticker claiming that South Africans love real beer and I just wanted to let the world know, this is not real beer.

I'll share real news in my next post, but please feel free to email and comment early and often. (It is such luxury to travel in a country with readily available internet!!)